An introduction to the Alternative South Downs Way
The Alternative South Downs Way is a walk along the full length of the South Downs, generally keeping to the dip-slope to the south of the ridge. It gives excellent views, passes through interesting places and there are a few good pubs along the way. It is accessible by public transport.
Why devise an alternative to the South Downs Way?
Less than 15% of the Monarch's Way (141.5 km or 88.5 miles) runs through the region covered by this website, but I found it provided a good and interesting alternative to the South Downs Way, to which it runs roughly parallel.
Unfortunately, the Monarch's Way ends with a long walk through Brighton which is frankly dull, and then a costal walk from Brighton to Shoreham-by-Sea which is of a different character, being urban walking, rather than downland walking. I therefore decided to see if there was a way of extending the Monarch's Way eastwards to Eastbourne, to create an 'Alternative South Downs Way', keeping to the south of the official South Downs Way. And, to keep the same end point as the official South Downs Way, I looked for a way of finishing the walk in Winchester.
This page describes the resulting route of the Alternative South Downs Way in eight sections. The route starts at the trig point on Warren Hill, above Eastbourne (a convenient junction with the bridleway section of the South Downs Way). It then proceeds through Newhaven and Falmer to join the official route of the Monarch's Way at the point where it uses the old formation of the Devil's Dyke Railway (mid-way along section 3 of the route). The route then simply follows the Monarch's Way (in reverse) almost as far as Twyford, where it diverges on to the Pilgrims' Trail, to finish at the west doors of Winchester Cathedral.
Monarch's Way waymarks
The waymark shows the path's name, with a crown in an oak tree surmounted by a ship. The Monarch's Way logo represents the Royal Oak tree at Boscobel (in which King Charles II hid with Colonel Carless); the Prince of Wales crown; and the ship 'The Surprise', on which Charles eventually escaped to France.
The Monarch's Way Association does an excellent job of maintaining the waymarking, which is generally very good, but it can disappear in built-up areas. It has been much improved recently by the use of small, discreet sticky labels with the Monarch�s Way logo (though only time will tell how durable they are).
Getting to and from start and finish points by public transport
This website is dedicated to the idea that it is possible to walk anywhere in the region by using public transport. The eight stages into which the route is divided have been selected to suit the availability of public transport. You can find the relevant timetables using the Links page of this site.
The advice on 'Getting to the start of the walk' and 'Returning from the end of the walk' assumes you are starting from London - always the easiest place to start from for a walk in the countryside.
Route directions
Generally, I have only given enough information to allow the walk to be traced on the relevant OS 1:25 000 maps - experienced walkers won't need anything more. The route directions are not sufficient in themselves for navigation without a map. In a few locations I have given a fuller route description, where I think that additional navigational information might avoid a wrong turning. Where the route follows Monarch's Way, the route directions simply say 'Follow the Monarch's Way, as marked on the OS 1:25 000 maps'.
Where I have quoted grid references, these are only approximate, to assist in locating a feature on the map. They were taken from Anquet 1:50 000 digital mapping, and may not exactly match the coordinates measured on OS 1:25 000 maps using a Romer scale.
| Section | From | To | Distance | OS 1:25 000 maps |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Section 1 | Warren Hill, Eastbourne | Newhaven | 24.1 km (15.1 miles) | 123 |
| Section 2 | Newhaven | Falmer | 17.3 km (10.8 miles) | 122 |
| Section 3 | Falmer | Bramber | 26.8 km (16.8 miles) | 122 |
| Section 4 | Bramber | Houghton, via Arundel | 27.0 km (16.9 miles) | 122, 121 |
| Section 5 | Houghton | West Dean | 21.2 km (13.3 miles) | 121, 120 |
| Section 6 | West Dean | Rowlands Castle | 15.9 km (9.9 miles) | 120 |
| Section 7 | Rowlands Castle | Warnford (near West Meon) | 26.2 km (16.4 miles) | 120, 119 |
| Section 8 | Warnford | Winchester | 26.7 km (16.7 miles) | 119, 132 |
Section 1: Warren Hill, Eastbourne to Newhaven
OS 1:25 000 maps: 123 Eastbourne & Beachy Head
Start point for the section: Warren Hill, Eastbourne (TV 588 981)
Getting to the start of the walk: Train to Eastbourne Station and then Bus No. 12 or 12A (operated by Brighton & Hove Bus and Coach Company) from stop on Terminus Road to the first stop on the top the downs, opposite Eastbourne Downs Golf Club on the A259 (East Dean Road). Better still, train to Newhaven Town Station, then Bus No. 12A via Beachy Head to the same stop, travelling from the opposite direction. The longer journey is worth it for the views from the top deck of the bus. To get to the start point of the route from the bus stop, walk a short way towards Eastbourne along the A259, then follow the South Downs Way southwards for about 0.5 km to reach the trig point on Warren Hill.
Finish point for the section: Newhaven Town Station (TQ 448 014)
Returning from the end of the walk: Train from Newhaven Town Station
Length: 24.1 km (15.1 miles)
Height ascended: 569 m
Estimated time for the walk: 5 hrs 50 mins
Route directions
From the trig point on Warren Hill (TV 588 981) walk to the car park on the B2103 (TV 587 978). Cross the road and take the path down Crapham Bottom and into East Hale Bottom. From East Hale Bottom, take the short path up to the top of Long Down. Follow the ridge of Long Down to Cornish Farm, then turn north to Birling Farm (a 'sheep centre'). From Birling Farm, follow the road into East Dean village. In the Village, turn left, past the church and pub, and the follow the path up Hobb's Eares (a small valley).
This brings you to Friston Church (St. Mary the Virgin) and pond. From the pond, cross the A259 and take the path northwards, initially through woodland and then across fields, past Friston Place. Where the path joins a track, turn left to reach a junction of several paths and bridleways (TV 547 990). Take the bridleway over Friston Hill and Snap Hill. From Snap Hill (TQ 543 006), a little careful navigation will take you onto the bridle way to Clapham Barn and Litlington village, on the Cuckmere River. There is a good pub at Litlington, the Plough and Harrow.
On reaching Litlington, follow the road northwards for a little way through the village, then take a path to the left, briefly following the route of the South Downs Way, to reach the river. At the river, leave the South Downs Way and turn south, then almost immediately cross the river on a footbridge. Once over the footbridge, turn left along the river as far as the footpath that turns off westwards, away from the river (at TQ 519 014). Follow this path, and then a permissive path (not marked on the edition of the 1:25 000 OS map I have) up to Alfriston Road and the start of the bridleway over Cradle Hill (at TQ 511 014). This bridleway forms a long continuous high level walk, at first westwards, and then swinging northwards, via 'The Comp', Norton Top and Five Lord's Burgh (allegedly where five parishes originally met). The bridleway eventually leads to the car park on top of the downs above Alciston. However, the route turns left about 0.5 km before the car park (at TQ 488 047), then very soon left again to join a long, fairly straight, bridleway over Heighton Hill and Gardener's Hill and so to Denton (at TQ 459 028).
On reaching the outskirts of Denton, turn left along the bridleway, and then right to follow a bridleway that passes close to the trig point on Mount Pleasant (TQ 459 024). Continue to follow the bridleway until you reach the suburban streets of Denton. Follow Fairholme Road then Station Road (the road at a diagonal to most of Denton's Streets) to reach the roundabout on the A259 (at TQ 454 019). From here, follow the road to Newhaven Town Station (TQ 448 014).
Section 2: Newhaven to Falmer
OS 1:25 000 maps: 122 Brighton & Hove
Start point for the section: Newhaven Town Station (TQ 448 014)
Getting to the start of the walk: Train to Newhaven Town Station
Finish point for the section: Falmer Station (TQ 347 087)
Returning from the end of the walk: Train from Falmer Station
Length: 17.3 km (10.8 miles)
Height ascended: 425 m
Estimated time for the walk: 4 hrs 10 mins
Route directions
I've described the very start of the walk in some detail, as it easy to miss the way.
Leaving Newhaven Town Station, turn left to cross the River Ouse on the A259 bridge. Just over the bridge, the A259 splits. Take North Way, following a loop in the Ouse westwards. Very soon after passing the bridge to Denton Island, the footpath-cum-cycleway drops away from the road. Follow this until reaching a rather obscure alley behind some terrace houses (it is marked as a public path on the OS 1:25 000 map). Follow this alley for about 100 m, then take the turning off to the right (before the alley comes to a dead end). This brings you onto Robinson Road, at the point where the road ends in a gate. Turn left along the road, and follow it until it turns sharp left at a small recreation ground (TQ 443 017). From here, follow an unmade path (not the made path) onto the flood bank alongside the Ouse. The route now follows the waymarked Sussex Ouse Valley Way.
Follow the footpath on the flood bank alongside the Ouse as far as the village of Piddinghoe. The path then follows the wall around the church to a very small green, with a village sign in the form of a globe on a pole, surmounted by a fish. Follow the road to the right, heading north-west, as far as a lane that veers off to the left, waymarked Sussex Ouse Valley Way and shown as a bridleway on the OS 1:25 000 map (at TQ 432 032). In about 300 m, leave the lane and follow a bridleway off to the right. This drops down into a valley with a drive leading up to Halcombe Farm. The route ceases to follow the Sussex Ouse Valley Way at this point.
Cross the driveway, and take the bridleway opposite, diagonally across a field below some scrub (shown as open access on the OS 1:25 000 map). The bridleway passes through the scrub, to emerge onto an open field (Bullock Down). Turn left across the field to reach the track that runs behind the scattered houses along the outskirts of Peacehaven (at TQ 420 032). The OS 1:25 000 map is a little misleading about the route of this bridleway, so some care is needed. The route through the scrub is fairly well used, so if you find yourself taking a little used path, it's probably the wrong one.
Follow the track into Telscombe village. When the track meets the village street, next to the church, turn left along the road until it ends in a splay of bridleways. Take the first bridleway on the right and follow this over Telscombe Tye (with a trig point just off the route, inside a reservoir compound), Highdole Hill and the flanks of Pickers Hill. The bridleway passes a monument, marked on the OS 1:25 000 map, on the spot where 'John Harvey, Esq. of Ickwell Bury in the County of Bedford' died suddenly on 20 June 1819.
'Mr Harvey was a deputy lieutenant for Bedfordshire, and served as its sheriff in 1795. At the period of the French revolution, he raised, and supported chiefly at his own expense, a troop of volunteers called the Dismounted Bedfordshire Horse Artillery.' So says A Genealogical and Heraldic History of the Landed Gentry; or, Commoners of Great Britain and Ireland, enjoying territorial possessions or high official rank, but uninvested with heritable honours. By John Burke, Esq. MDCCCXXXVIII (ie 1838).
About 200 m beyond Harvey's monument there is a bridleway off to the right. Ignore this, but take the bridleway off to the right 0.5 km further on (at TQ 378 050), heading north. Follow this up the valley to some derelict buildings (which look as if they are ex-military), ignoring a turn into Scandean Bottom. Continue beyond the buildings, along Falmer Bottom, up onto the ridge leading to the summit of Newmarket Hill. The route here passes through Castle Hill National Nature Reserve. Castle Hill itself is to the east of Falmer Bottom. On reaching the ridge, carry straight on and down to meet a track running roughly east-west (at TQ 365 076).
Follow the track westwards, crossing the B2123, onto Falmer Hill, where it turns north to join another track (at TQ 347 074). From here, take the path that drops northwards towards the Falmer campus of the University of Brighton. When it reaches a belt of trees, the path turns east, and then north again. At the time of writing, this area is a vast building site, with a new dual carriageway (on what was Village Way) being built to serve a new stadium for Brighton and Hove Albion Football Club. Follow round the edge of the campus, until you reach the path leading to Falmer Station, running parallel to the A27(T).
Section 3: Falmer to Bramber
OS 1:25 000 maps: 122 Brighton & Hove
Start point for the section: Falmer Station (TQ 347 087)
Getting to the start of the walk: Train to Falmer Station.
Finish point for the section: Bramber (TQ 188 106)
Returning from the end of the walk: Bus No. 2A (operated by Brighton & Hove Bus and Coach Company) from Bramber (stop opposite the Castle Hotel) to Shoreham-by-Sea Station, then train from Shoreham-by-Sea Station. If you want a pint, the Castle Hotel is convenient and sells Harveys.
Length: 26.8 km (16.8 miles)
Height ascended: 708 m
Estimated time for the walk: 6 hrs 30 mins
Route directions
From Falmer Station, cross the A27(T) by the underpass, then turn left to follow the old road alongside the A27(T) as far as the lodges at the entrance to Stanmer Park. Follow the unfenced road into Stanmer village, taking the left fork about halfway to the village, passing in front of Stanmer House. At the junction just beyond the House, turn right, passing the church on your right, and walk though the village to where the road ends (at TQ 336 098). Here take the bridleway heading north, past Limekiln Wood and Granny's belt. Where the bridleway forks (at TQ 336 108), take the left fork into Highpark Wood (by High Park Farm) and so onto Ditchling Road at Highpark Corner.
Cross the road and take the bridleway around to the head of North Bottom (at TQ 338 121). Then turn left and follow the bridleway along North Bottom and past Lower Standean, to join the Mid Sussex Link of the Sussex Border Path about 1 km north of the Chattri (Indian War Memorial). The Sussex Border Path is waymarked, and shown on the 1:25 000 OS map.
Follow the Sussex Border Path southwards. When it reaches the A27(T), it turns westwards, then northwards, crossing the A23(T) and the railway on a long bridge. Continue with the Sussex Border Path over Sweet Hill and Varncombe Hill.
At the crossroads of bridleways on Varncombe Hill (TQ 280 107), leave the Sussex Border Path by taking a sharp left, onto a bridleway at first heading south, then turning south west. When the bridleway reaches Saddlecombe Road, turn left along the road for a short distance, as far as a footpath on the opposite side of the road. This footpath parallels the road for about 200 m, then heads uphill, away from the road. Follow this path, which crosses Devil's Dyke Road, past the club house of the Brighton and Hove Golf Club, to meet the Monarch�s Way at the point where it uses the old formation of the Devil's Dyke Railway (TQ 267 091).
Then simply follow the Monarch's Way westwards. It is marked on the OS 1:25 000 maps, and is generally well waymarked. For further details about the Monarch's Way, see the Paths page of this site.
Section 4: Bramber to Houghton, via Arundel
OS 1:25 000 maps: 122 Brighton & Hove, 121 Arundel & Pulborough
Start point for the section: Bramber (TQ 188 106)
Getting to the start of the walk: Train to Shoreham-by-Sea Station, then Bus No. 2A (operated by Brighton & Hove Bus and Coach Company) to Bramber (stop outside the Castle Hotel).
Finish point for the section: Houghton (TQ 018 115)
Returning from the end of the walk: Train from Amberley Station. From the end of the section, walk a short way northwards, towards the village of Bury, then follow the South Downs Way eastwards to the footbridge over the River Arun. Do not cross the bridge, but follow the path along the river to the road bridge over the Arun. Cross the bridge (taking care - it is narrow and busy) and follow the road to Amberley Station. This adds 1.8 km to the length of the walk (about 20 minutes). If you want a pint before taking the train home, the Bridge Inn is highly recommended - it sells Harveys.
Length: 27.0 km (16.9 miles)
Height ascended: 739 m
Estimated time for the walk: 6 hrs 40 mins
Route directions
Follow the Monarch's Way, as marked on the OS 1:25 000 maps.
Arundel is an interesting town, worth a separate visit. Arundel Castle, the seat of The Dukes of Norfolk, is open to the public. Its web site describes it as "one of the great treasure houses of England". The town is also notable for Arundel Cathedral, the cathedral church for the catholic diocese of Arundel and Brighton. The Cathedral was founded by Henry 15th Duke of Norfolk. The building was completed on 1st July 1873, to designs of Joseph Hansom, inventor of the Hansom cab.
Section 5: Houghton to West Dean
OS 1:25 000 maps: 121 Arundel & Pulborough, 120 Chichester
Start point for the section: Houghton (TQ 018 115)
Getting to the start of the walk: Train to Amberley Station, then walk, reversing the route described under 'Returning from the end of the walk' in Section 4. This adds 1.8 km to the length of the walk (about 20 minutes).
Finish point for the section: West Dean (SU 857 124)
Returning from the end of the walk: Bus No. 60 (operated by Stagecoach South) from West Dean to Chichester Bus Station. The bus stop in West Dean is outside the Selsey Arms (a pub I have never managed to arrive at whilst it was open). Chichester Bus Station is on the A286 opposite the railway station. Then train from Chichester Station.
Length: 21.2 km (13.3 miles)
Height ascended: 541 m
Estimated time for the walk: 5 hrs 10 mins
Route directions
Follow the Monarch's Way, as marked on the OS 1:25 000 maps.
The walk along Stane Street is very fine, and you get a real sense of walking along a roman road. Goodwood Race Course rather dominates the final stages of the walk. At 206 m, St Roche's Hill is the highest point on the Alternative South Downs Way.
Section 6: West Dean to Rowlands Castle
OS 1:25 000 maps: 120 Chichester
Start point for the section: West Dean (SU 857 124)
Getting to the start of the walk: Train to Chichester Station, then Bus No. 60 (operated by Stagecoach South) from Chichester Bus Station (on the A286 opposite the railway station) to West Dean. The bus stop in West Dean is opposite the Selsey Arms.
Finish point for the section: Rowlands Castle Station (SU 734 108)
Returning from the end of the walk: Train from Rowlands Castle Station
Length: 15.9 km (9.9 miles)
Height ascended: 391 m
Estimated time for the walk: 3 hrs 50 mins
Route directions
Follow the Monarch's Way, as marked on the OS 1:25 000 maps.
This is the shortest section on the route. I extended the walk by 6 or 7 km by following the Sussex Border Path southwards from Rowlands Castle to Emsworth, and then getting the train from there.
Section 7: Rowlands Castle to Warnford (near West Meon)
OS 1:25 000 maps: 120 Chichester, 119 Meon Valley
Start point for the section: Rowlands Castle Station (SU 734 108)
Getting to the start of the walk: Train to Rowlands Castle Station.
Finish point for the section: Warnford (SU 625 231)
Returning from the end of the walk: Bus No. 17 (operated by BriJan Tours) from Warnford to Petersfield Station, then train. The bus stop in Warnford is opposite the George and Falcon pub on the A32 (the pub was closed at the time of writing). The No 17 is a rather infrequent service, so it's worth having the phone numbers of a couple of Petersfield-based taxi services with you, in case you miss the last bus. Alternatively, you can walk on to West Meon (about 2 km to the north-east), where there are pubs, more frequent buses, and a later service.
Length: 26.2 km (16.4 miles)
Height ascended: 572 m
Estimated time for the walk: 6 hrs 10 mins
Route directions
Follow the Monarch's Way, as marked on the OS 1:25 000 maps. The route through Horndean is intricate, but can be followed reasonably easily on the OS 1:25 000 map.
There are two significant places of interest along the route: Broadhalfpenny Down and Old Winchester Hill.
Broadhalfpenny Down is the home of the original Hambledon Cricket Club, 'the Cradle of Cricket'. The excellent Hambledon village web site has a page on cricket history, and the role of Hambledon Cricket Club in that history. The Bat and Ball pub at Broadhalfpenny Down is a good place to stop for a lunchtime pint.
Old Winchester Hill has a long history of occupation, and is the site of an iron age hill fort. It is also a National Nature Reserve, managed by Natural England.
Section 8: Warnford to Winchester
OS 1:25 000 maps: 119 Meon Valley, 132 Winchester
Start point for the section: Warnford (SU 625 231)
Getting to the start of the walk: Train to Petersfield Station, then bus No. 17 (operated by BriJan Tours) from Petersfield. The bus stop is just outside the station, to the left of the entrance. Get off at the stop opposite the George and Falcon pub in Warnford.
Finish point for the section: Winchester Cathedral (SU 481 292)
Returning from the end of the walk: Train from Winchester Station.
Length: 26.7 km (16.7 miles)
Height ascended: 552 m
Estimated time for the walk: 6 hrs 15 mins
Route directions
Start by following the Monarch's Way from Warnford, as marked on the OS 1:25 000 maps. The Monarch's Way is initially coincident with the bridleway section of the South Downs Way, which passes through Warnford to avoid Old Winchester Hill. Take the back lane through Warnford itself, following the South Downs Way waymarks, rather than walk along the A32.
The Monarch's Way diverges from the South Downs Way at Wind Farm (SU 580 240) and heads south to Street End (SU 555 199). At Street End, the Monarch's Way turns north west, to join the Pilgrims' Trail at Upham (SU 537 206). The Brushmakers Arms in Upham is a good place to stop for a lunchtime pint.
About 1.3 km beyond Owslebury (at SU 506 244), the Monarch's Way and the Pilgrims' Trail diverge. This is where, regretfully, the Alternative South Downs Way leaves the Monarch's Way. Follow the Pilgrims' Trail northwards over Hazeley Down and Twyford Down, across the M3, around St Catherine�s Hill and then into Winchester along the towpath of the Itchen Navigation.
The Itchen Navigation towpath will eventually lead you onto Domum Road. At the end of Domum Road, turn left into College Walk, and follow it round to Wolvesey Castle, then turn left into College Street. At the end of College Street, turn right (through Kings Gate) and then right again (through Priory Gate) to enter the precincts of Winchester Cathedral.
The Pilgrims' Trail is marked on the OS 1:25 000 maps, and is generally well waymarked.
There is a description of the route of the Pilgrims' Tail on Hampshire County Council�s 'Hantsweb' site. It explains that the Trail follows "a medieval route from the shrine of St Swithun at Winchester Cathedral, weaving across the landscape by way of Bishop's Waltham and Southwick to Portsmouth in the footsteps of the Miquelots, pilgrims who made the long journey to worship St Michael in Normandy". The complete Pilgrims' Trail is 45 km (28 miles) long.
